Florianópolis quiet beaches: Lagoinha do Leste and the south

The quiet beaches of Florianópolis are the ones you reach on foot or by boat. Lagoinha do Leste is a 2.2 km (1.4 mi) trail from Pântano do Sul, about 1 hour, or almost 6 km (3.7 mi) from Armação via Matadeiro. Ilha do Campeche takes 800 visitors a day in the December to March season, set by the city’s Portaria 059/2024 and booked online through the city.

Why the south of the island

Florianópolis sits mostly on Ilha de Santa Catarina, an island with dozens of beaches. The north and the east coast draw the crowds, the beach clubs and the nightlife. The south is slower, greener and better for walking.

The southern villages grew from fishing communities settled by Azorean immigrants. Pântano do Sul, Armação and Ribeirão da Ilha still have fishing boats on the sand, simple seafood restaurants and steep green hills behind the beach. The trails here lead over headlands to beaches with no road access.

This guide covers two trips: Lagoinha do Leste, a beach in a municipal park reached only by trail or boat, and Ilha do Campeche, a small protected island with a daily visitor limit.

Getting there

Florianópolis airport is in the south of the island, about 13 km from the center. That makes the southern beaches the closest to the airport.

Buses run from the airport to the center, and taxis and ride-hailing apps work across the island. The southern beaches are served by local buses that connect through the island’s bus terminals. A hire car makes it easier to reach several trailheads in a day. For long-distance planning, see Domestic flights in Brazil and Car rental in Brazil.

Check before you go: Bus lines, fares and timetables change. Plan your bus route on the day with a transit app or ask at your lodging, and ask the boat operators in Pântano do Sul and Armação for the current fare before you board.

When to go

Summer, from December to March, is the warm-water season. It is also when the Lagoinha boat runs, the Campeche quota is in force and the island is busiest.

The Campeche season sets 800 visitors a day across all operators, and a lower cap applies outside summer. Weekdays in December, early March and the shoulder months of November and April are the best compromise between warm weather and fewer people.

Winter, from June to August, brings cool days and cold water. Trails are quieter and the air is clearer. From about July to November, southern right whales visit the coast of Santa Catarina, and you may see them from headlands in the south of the island.

Rain can come any time of year. Avoid the steep trails after heavy rain, when the descents turn slippery.

Check before you go: The Lagoinha boat runs mainly in summer. Ask at the Pântano do Sul beach whether it is running on your dates, and check the sea forecast before you go.

Where to base

Stay in the south of the island if you want the trails and the quiet. Armação and Pântano do Sul are the start points of the two Lagoinha do Leste trails.

• Armação has a long beach, a church and the trapiche for Campeche boats. It is the most practical base.
• Pântano do Sul is a fishing village with seafood restaurants on the sand. It is the shortest walk to Lagoinha.
• Matadeiro is a small beach a short walk from Armação, with a few places to stay.
• Ribeirão da Ilha, on the bay side, is known for oyster farms and Azorean-style houses.

Lodging in the south is mostly small pousadas and rental houses. Book early for January and Carnival, and book direct or through a booking site.

Lagoinha do Leste

Lagoinha do Leste is a wild beach with a freshwater lagoon, reached only by trail or boat. It sits inside the Parque Natural Municipal da Lagoinha do Leste, 920.54 hectares, which is open to the public without access restrictions.

The park was created in 1992 and adapted to the national conservation-unit system by Lei 10.387 of 2018. Its management plan regulates camping, commerce and transport. Boat transport runs in high season with the artisanal fishers of Pântano do Sul. Park contact: (48) 3237-5660.

The beach is largely undeveloped, with no buildings and little commerce. A lagoon fed by streams from Morro do Matadeiro sits behind the sand. A simple bar with equipment rental sits on the right of the beach in season.

The trails

• Pântano do Sul trail: about 2.2 km, about 1 hour, mostly shaded, with a long climb to the summit and a descent to the beach.
• Armação trail via Matadeiro: almost 6 km, at least 2 hours for a fast walker. It crosses more open ground with sea views.
• Full loop: Armação, Matadeiro, Lagoinha, Morro da Coroa and back via Pântano do Sul. Allow 5 to 7 hours with stops. The descent from Morro da Coroa is steep and slippery.

Safety on the trail and the beach

Lagoinha do Leste has the most Fire Department rescues of any trail in Greater Florianópolis. Treat it as a real hike.

• Walk in a group, ideally with someone who knows the trail.
• Start early and carry water and food. Drinking water may be missing in dry periods.
• Wear shoes with grip. Flip-flops cause many of the falls.
• Phone signal is mostly absent along the trail, except at Morro da Coroa.
• Do not plan on toilets.
• Call 193 for the Fire Department in an emergency.

Waves and currents are strong, and the beach is popular with surfers. Swim only on calm days, stay close to shore, and swim in the lagoon if the sea looks rough.

The city’s tourism plan lists the Lagoinha do Leste trails among those that could be managed by private companies under concession. Rules and fees may change if that goes ahead.

Ilha do Campeche

Ilha do Campeche is a small island off the east coast with clear water, white sand and ancient rock engravings. IPHAN, the national heritage institute, lists it as archaeological and landscape heritage, and visits are tightly controlled.

The island’s guided trails pass archaeological sites such as Letreiro and Pedra Preta Sul, with rock carvings made by the island’s earliest inhabitants. Treat them as heritage. Do not touch or climb on the engravings.

How to book

• Booking: On the city’s official site, create an account, choose a transport option or your own means, pick a date, add companions and pay. The voucher is released 24 hours after payment clears.
• No changes: Rescheduling and refunds are not possible, and the city is not liable if weather or sea conditions stop the visit.
• Operators: Four boat associations and credentialed individual operators are listed on the site with phone contacts.
• Hours: Boarding and landing happen only between 9 a.m. and 5 p.m. The island closes in bad weather, rough seas or without monitors.
• Quota: Operators share the 800-person daily limit by category.

Where the boats leave from

• Armação: from the trapiche, in the morning, with a few hours on the island.
• Praia do Campeche: from Avenida Pequeno Príncipe, a short inflatable-boat crossing.
• Barra da Lagoa: a longer trip of about 70 minutes, with reservation required.

Rules on the island

• Not allowed: camping, barbecues, speakers, pets (except guide dogs) and feeding quatis (coatis).
• Guided trails cost R$ 20 to R$ 40 depending on the trail. All trails except Volta Norte are booked on the island. Volta Norte needs prior scheduling.
• A conservation and landing fee of R$ 6.70 per passenger (about US$1.32, checked Oct 2026) is paid through the boat operators.

A working group of federal prosecutors, the city, IPHAN and the boat associations manages the island. Video monitoring and people counting help keep numbers under the cap. The city also plans to make the island a municipal natural park, which may bring new rules.

Naufragados

Praia dos Naufragados, at the southern tip of the island, is another beach reached only by trail or boat. The trail runs through Atlantic Forest to a quiet beach, with a lighthouse on the headland nearby. The city’s tourism plan groups it with the trails of the Lagoa do Peri natural monument.

Ask Floram, the municipal environment foundation, or your pousada for current trail conditions and rules before you go.

Costs

Check before you go: Boat fares change from season to season. The city’s booking site handles payment for Campeche, so confirm the fare with the operator you choose before you pay. Walking the Lagoinha trails is free.

Skip it if

• You cannot walk 2 hours on steep ground or carry your own water. Lagoinha do Leste is a real hike.
• You want a beach with shops, toilets and sunbeds. The south’s wild beaches have little or nothing.
• You want to swim on a day with big surf. Lagoinha’s currents are strong.
• You dislike crowds in January. Ilha do Campeche fills toward its 800 cap.
• You want flexible plans. Campeche bookings cannot be changed or refunded.

If you are heading inland afterwards, see Urubici and the Serra Catarinense.