Where to see jaguars, macaws and giant otters in Brazil

The best place to see jaguars in Brazil is the northern Pantanal at Porto Jofre, 147 km (91 mi) down the unpaved Transpantaneira from Poconé. In the high season, the chance of a sighting there is above 94%. Hyacinth macaws and giant otters live in the same wetland, and both are threatened species that you can watch with care.

Why the Pantanal

The Pantanal is the world’s largest tropical wetland, shared by Brazil, Bolivia and Paraguay. Open grassland, rivers and gallery forest make animals easier to see than in the Amazon, where thick forest hides them. Jaguars, giant otters, hyacinth macaws, capybaras, caimans and the jabiru stork, the Pantanal’s symbol, all live here.

Brazil’s Pantanal splits into two states. Mato Grosso, in the north, is best for jaguars by boat. Mato Grosso do Sul, in the south, has ranch lodges, vehicle safaris and easy links to Bonito. For the two sides, see the north versus south guide.

Jaguars

The jaguar is classed Near Threatened by the IUCN. Brazil holds the largest jaguar population in the Americas. The conservation group Panthera runs a jaguar research base at Fazenda Jofre Velho in the Pantanal and has identified more than 300 jaguars with partners in its Jaguar Identification Project.

The northern Pantanal. The Pantanal has an estimated 4,000 to 6,000 jaguars, the second-largest population after the Brazilian Amazon. Around Porto Jofre, the number of jaguars used to people rose from 29 in 2013 to 130 in 2023. In the high season, the chance of a sighting is above 94%. Up to 30 boats can be on the water at once, and jaguar tourism brings the region millions of US dollars a year.

Researchers have asked for clearer rules to protect the cats. They suggest less open-radio sharing of jaguar locations in the dry season, smaller coordinated boat groups and limits on visitor numbers. Choose an operator that keeps its distance, limits time at each sighting and does not crowd the animal.

Onçafari in the south. The conservation organization Onçafari runs ecotourism at its Caiman Pantanal base, 53,000 hectares in Miranda, Mato Grosso do Sul. It has worked there since 2011. In 2023 the base hosted 2,596 guests, 51% foreign, and every guest who stayed at least three days saw at least one jaguar. That comes from years of slowly getting jaguars used to observers. Onçafari limits vehicles to four per sighting and operates on private land.

Encontro das Águas. The Parque Estadual Encontro das Águas, near Porto Jofre, is reached by river only. Entry is free, and boats, guides and lodging are paid services. July to October is the best time there, because jaguars stay closer to the riverbanks.

Check before you go: boat rules and licensing in Mato Grosso can change. Ask your operator how it follows the state’s rules, or contact the Mato Grosso state environment secretariat (SEMA-MT).

Macaws

Hyacinth macaws. The hyacinth macaw (arara-azul-grande) is the largest parrot in the world, cobalt blue with a yellow ring around the eye. Brazil lists it as Vulnerable on its national threatened-species list, Portaria MMA nº 1.704/2026. It had come off the list in 2014 and has now returned to it. The Instituto Arara Azul has monitored the species for more than three decades. In 2025 it organized a simultaneous count in Brazil, Bolivia and Paraguay, and Mato Grosso do Sul recorded 409 birds.

In the Pantanal, hyacinth macaws often nest on cattle ranches, in large old trees and nest boxes. Many ranch lodges in both the north and the south see them near the main house, especially in the early morning. Ask your lodge whether macaws nest on the property before you book.

Buraco das Araras. This sinkhole is in Jardim, Mato Grosso do Sul, near Bonito. It is about 100 m deep, in a 29-hectare reserve with more than 120 red macaws, not hyacinth macaws. Visits are guided only, and entering the sinkhole is banned. The trail is 970 m and takes about 1 hour 20 minutes. Tours cost R$ 117 to R$ 385 in 2025 (about US$23 to US$76, checked Oct 2026). See Bonito.

Giant otters

The giant otter (ariranha) can grow to nearly 2 m long and lives in noisy family groups. It is listed as Endangered by the IUCN. In March 2026 it was added to the UN list of threatened migratory species, at a conference held in Campo Grande. Its range has shrunk by about 40% over recent decades. Brazil still holds some of the largest remaining populations, in the Amazon and the Pantanal.

Where to look. In the northern Pantanal, jaguar boat trips from Porto Jofre run along the Rio Cuiabá and its tributaries, where otter families fish and den in the banks. Many guides add otter dens to the route. In the south, river trips from lodges near Miranda and on the Rio Negro offer chances too.

The Parque Nacional do Pantanal Matogrossense, in Poconé on the Paraguay and Cuiabá rivers, lists the giant otter among its notable species. The park has little infrastructure, visits are limited to a small area near its headquarters, and entry needs prior authorization from ICMBio.

Watch with care. Otters are sensitive to boats near their dens. Ask your guide to cut the engine, keep distance and leave if the group shows stress, such as loud snorting.

Getting there

• North. Fly to Cuiabá, drive to Poconé, then follow 147 km (91 mi) of unpaved road to Porto Jofre, where the road ends. The Transpantaneira crosses dozens of wooden bridges, and wildlife watching starts on the drive. Boats take over at Porto Jofre.
• South. From Campo Grande, Aquidauana and Miranda are about 2 to 3 hours by road, and Corumbá about 6 hours.

Most lodges arrange transfers from Cuiabá or Campo Grande, which is simpler than driving the dirt roads yourself. Ask your lodge to quote a transfer when you book. Both cities share UTC−4; see Brazil time zones.

When to go

Season depends on the animal and the region. May to September is the dry season and the best time for watching animals, as they gather near the remaining water. October to April is the flood season, when roads close and animals spread out.

For jaguars at Porto Jofre, July to October is the peak. For birds, the dry season brings large flocks to shrinking ponds. Fires can affect the late dry season in some years. For the flood and fire pattern, see best time to visit Brazil and the Pantanal guide.

Where to stay

Pantanal lodging means fazendas, working or former cattle ranches turned into lodges. Most sell full board with guided outings, so the price covers meals, boat trips, walks and drives. In the north, lodges line the Transpantaneira, and a few float or sit near Porto Jofre for early boat starts. In the south, ranch lodges sit around Miranda and Aquidauana.

Costs

Wildlife trips in the Pantanal are a splurge. Lodges price by the night with meals and outings, and boat trips at Porto Jofre are often sold per day. Prices rise in the dry-season peak.

Ask each operator for a written quote that lists what is included, such as transfers, boats, guides and drinks. Onçafari asks interested guests to write by email for lodging, prices and tours. Compare at least two operators before you pay a deposit.

Practical tips

• Bring binoculars and a camera with a long zoom lens.
• Wear neutral colors, a hat and long sleeves. Sun and insects are strong.
• Carry insect repellent for evenings on land.
• Plan at least three nights in one area, and more for jaguars.
• Do not feed wildlife, and never ask a guide to get closer than is safe.

Skip it if

• You need a guaranteed sighting. Even the best places offer high odds, not certainty.
• You are short of time. The Pantanal needs days, as the 7-day itinerary shows.
• You are on a tight budget. Full-board lodges and boat days cost far more than city travel.
• You want the Amazon. This page covers the Pantanal and Bonito area only.

Respect the animals: keep your distance, follow your guide, and do not feed wildlife.